The fashion weirdos are back in the game and what was once considered tacky now stars in The City of Sex. New York.
Sweatpants-cross-pearls wearing Carrie Bradshaw saw it coming and so did Raf Simons for his Monte Carlo Resort collection a couple of seasons ago when he ingeniously used neon orange and poping fiuchia combined. And as the sportswear fever returns along with other 80s trends including logomania and color-blocking, key elements from color palettes to matterials etcetera are being absorbed massively by designers around the fashion capitals giving as a hard time and a dilemma on whether getting that Riccardo Tisci x Nike pair of shoes is a better investment from (heel-god forgive me) a pair of Loubies.
Thakoon.
Anna Wintour's protege boy has grown up and even though his references traveled abroad (over at Dior and Givenchy to namedrop a few) the casual New Yorker esprit he became NY's favorite for prevailed. Adding color back in the game after a quite moody collection, he played with color-blocking while merging different forms of the old-time-classic american style all-together. Half-sweaters-half-shirts-dresses that looked like three pieces but were actually one, bright dyed furs creating texture prints and orange flowers tearing their way out (the Schiaparelli way) on in-your-face-blues, tacky prints combined and worn underneath cashmere jumpers (that's a Thank you Ms.Wintour trademark) and a lot more came together for an interesting collection, personally one of my favorites in "Thakoon history".
Rodarte.
The weird sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy got even weird-er this season sending down the runway fairy-looking, homeless-chic oriented, Prada (or MiuMiu) inspired, beatniks turned Shari bearing Hindus who also happen to love Star Wars. Now that's a hell of a summary. (and obviously no further analysis is required)
Prabal Gurung.
A lover of layering and fur cannot be a fair judge of a collection that was full of both. But then again every defile has its flaws and how this one ended was the biggest out of it. Why? Just because there was no need for another set of fairy looking dresses. The ostrich feathers, mix of the prints, divine tuxudos and knit x a lot of other fabrics opening sweaters were all this show needed to be a success. (Plus a naked saboter who started running across the runway upsetting Wintour in the meantime)