MAN is a UK based organization which funds the very best London has to offer in its ever interesting menswear fields. Formed by Topman and Fashion East, its aim is to support emerging talents and offer them financial and PR aid to stage their own, not-to-be-missed, fashion shows. Designers go through a certain committee (members of which are people like Nicola Formichetti) ,which decides on whose vision deserves to be launched on a larger scale. (Among the talents who have already completed the program is acclaimed fashion designer J.W Anderson.)
For fall 2014 three designers showcased their collections starting off with Alan Taylor who presented a color-blocking manifesto of tweed in a mixed silhouette of 1940s Zazous & Zoot suiters and Gaultier's skirted man of the 80s. An amazing collection that speaks "New" to me more than the rest two for it is both innovative but also carefree in a way, without too much effort put into it, in a good way.
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Alan Taylor |
Bobby Abley has a thing for Disney. Seen last on his SS14 show for MAN. the Mickie mouse theme prevails along with the pop motives, and logoism of the new era. Genuine styling, some to-die-for pieces made of something like mohair or angora, brain patterns, in-your-face signs in Disney's famous font and oversized sweaters in blinding white made for a much talked about show of a so-called mature designer (even though he just turned 25) that is ready to start off with his own label. And even though I loved the show instantly and of course fell in love with everything he does since his first show I somehow got tired of it already. It seems to me as too YOLO (going Swag), too Azealia Banks oriented and very boyish going Fucking Young Magazine. And then the baseball outfits thing. Aren't we pass that already? So Givenchy, so 2012/13.
Craig Green went East but took the safari hat from his last trip to Africa with him. And some Harry Potter costume fiction. Oversized forms, layering, black and deep blue were all used to the limit along with a couple of patterns in the same mood. A collection I did not particulary loved but was still OK. And that comes from an Antwerpist at heart.
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